Montmartre has long been famous for its artists, bohemian types and hangers-on. This hilly neighborhood was originally outside of the city, and was named the Village de Montmartre. In the 19th century it attracted painters and sculptors because of its low rents and proximity to Paris: Van Gogh, Utrillo, Pissaro and Toulouse-Lautrec all lived and worked here.
You can still see a number of the houses and studios where they created some of the most famous paintings in the world. Many individual buildings and streets still look much the same as when they painted them.
A good place to start any artistic tour of Montmartre is the Place Emile-Goudeau on the south slope of the butte (knoll, or hill, in French), a short walk away from the Abbesses metro station. At no. 13 is the Bateau-Lavoir, a small art studio that many artists, including Picasso and Modigliani once called home. Here, Picasso painted one of his most famous and controversial paintings, Les Desmoiselles d'Avignon. The original building was remodeled in 1978. Today, it harbors about 25 artist and sculptor studios. You can see their work displayed in the large showroom.
Another building of artistic interest close to here is the building where Picasso had his first studio in Paris (49 rue Gabrielle).
A few minutes walk downhill from the square you can see the rather drab-looking apartment building where Vincent Van Gogh lived for several years in the 1880's (54 rue Lepic). Further along the street there is a lovely garden hidden away behind high walls. In one of these houses the surrealist painter Max Ernst lived (75 rue Lepic). It would be nice to have some plaques or signs posted on some of these buildings, but for the most part there is nothing to indicate the buildings' importance.
Towards the top of the butte you can still find the 'Pink House' the subject of one of Utrillo's most famous paintings (2 rue de l'Abreuvoir, now a small café). Further along on rue Cortot, at no. 12, you can see how that same café looked back in the days when Utrillo and his friends drank there: there is a reconstruction of the café's interior in the small but atmospheric museum of Montmartre. This museum is housed in a 17th century house, where Renoir once had a studio. It captures the history and artistic legacy of the area in rooms of old photos, paintings and drawings (12 rue Cortot).
Another museum that is worth a visit is the "Espace Salvador Dali". This small museum tucked away on a street on the front of the butte, has a permanent exhibition of paintings, drawings and sculptures by Dali.
The artists are still in Montmartre but these days, they can be found on the Place du Tertre, hunched over easels and trying to earn a living from the tourists. You may find the square crowded, but in fact the quantities of art for sale are regulated - 2 paintings per square meter!
On place du Tertre, you may have to fend off the unwanted attentions of dozens of 'quick-draw' portrait painters, who just won't take no for an answer. But away from the tourist-filled plazza, down some of the more picturesque side streets, you can still feel the spirit of some of the greatest names in art.
Read Martin Loughlin's feature on the history of Montmartre
Read Martin Loughlin's feature on the hills and staircases of Montmartre
Read Martin Loughlin's feature on the windmills and vineyard of Montmartre
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Martin Loughlin is a talented contributor to Paris Eiffel Tower News. Should you like him to write professionally for you, please contact him at
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