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Ayers Rock – a cosmic wonder in the middle of nowhere


Dead in the middle of a nowhere stands a cosmic wonder that must have disturbed Ernest Giles, the first Western man to witness this grotesque yet beautiful natural creation - it seems to have popped in from a different world.

Of course, the ‘civilized’ world has an eternal habit of ‘discovering’ places – like Columbus discovered America, or Captain Cook discovered the landmass Down Under. However, for the Aborigines, this landmark has always been there. “We, the traditional land owners of Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park, are direct descendants of the beings who created our lands during the Tjukurpa (Creation Time). We have always been here.”[1]

For Giles, the rock was a piece of wonder as he described it as ‘the remarkable pebble’; for the Aborigines, it is an object of worship, a stage for ritual, a hallowed ground, an arena of divine wonderment. That, perhaps, captures the essential and eternal difference between the local and the tourist vision. This is not surprising – for most, the Statue of Liberty is just that – a statue.

Ayer’s Rock is one of the most recognizible landmarks in Australia – along with Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Sydney Opera House and the Great Barrier Reef. A large sandstone rock formation, till very recently it was acclaimed, wrongly, as the largest monolith of the world. Geologically, Ayer’s rock – or Uluru, the local word that has acquired official designation since 1993 – is part of a larger geological structure. At 318 meters and a circumference of 8 kms, it is an imposing formation that deters thoughts of adventure except in the brave.

Like a strong magnet, it attracts tourists from far and wide, despite the fact that it resides in a most inhospitable piece of ground, and it endures temperatures from both extremes – in fact, Uluru saw snowfall a few years back, and temperature frequently falls below freezing point.

As Ayer’s Rock attracts tourists, the favorite pastime remains climbing this imposing rock. Most come to this place planning to climb it and earning their little piece of personal glory. A significant number change their mind on seeing it. Many instead enjoy a visit to the Cultural Center at the Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park, where the visitors learn about local Anangu culture and their way of life, which forbids any adventure with the Uluru. (In fact, a visit to the Cultural Center is considered a must, whether you plan on climbing the Rock or not. With photo collages, oral history sound panels, Pitjantjatjara language learning interactives, videos, audio profiles and a lot more, the visit is a packed culture class.)

A significant number of visitors are advised not to climb due to medical conditions. In fact, those with heart problems, acrophobia or breathing troubles should not even think of climbing the Rock. Those attempting a climb should consider the easier routes, and should drink lots of water to prevent dehydration, with protective clothing and sunscreen to avoid sunburn and sunstroke.

Visitors should climb in a group, keep close to the used pathways, note the position of the alarm bells, wear comfortable clothing and footwear and should be physically healthy. Climbers should also avoid the midday time of extreme temperatures – in fact, on those days when the forecast temperature exceeds 38 degree Celcius, climbing is prohibited.

However, Ayers Rock is much more than a temptation for those trained in trekking. It is a place where one comes to experience the sublime, where the mind inevitably engages in philosophy, enquiring the esoteric things beyond human comprehension.

 It is a place that makes you feel romantic – in fact, a open air banquet service under the twinkling stars named ‘Sounds of Silence’ became a huge success ever since its launch. The varying shades of the rock under various skies gives this chameleon rock an ambience that borders on miraculous. Its smooth surface and irregular indentations give different shadow effects. The red standstone and feldspar relfects red light at sunrise and sunset, giving it a glowing appearance. During rainfall, the flowing water gives a different ambience, whereas the fungus growing on rock surfaces project a dark color.

Ayers Rock has charmed people for a long time. Its unique structure is a cause of eternal wonder, and one may view this in various ways. Those who are unable to climb to the top may take a circumnavigating walk around the 8 kilometer circumference. They may take a hot air balloon trip or a sightseeing tour from a small fixed wing plane. Others may choose a camel tour through the red sand dunes, or a Harley Davidson bike ride with a knowledgeable guide. There are numerous treks and walk in and near the Rock. The nearby Kata Tjuta rock formations, about 25 kms from the star attraction, are equally novel structures.

Ayers Rock falls in that category of tourist attractions that have different significations for different people. While the ancient Egyptian and Inca form of life has died away, the Aborginal form of life lives on robustly in the Territory. As we visit Ayers Rock we must remember it belongs to them, and that we get to see it with their permission only. Whether we respect their wishes or not is the parameter of our own cultural values – but we should be very honoured we have the opportunity to visit such a true wonder of ancient civilisation.  

Summary

Ayers Rock, right in the middle of an inhospitable Australian nowhere, is a sandstone behemoth that has attracted veneration from Aborigines and adventure from outsiders. Its feldspar composition and oxidized red surface create a magic of colors that change its appearance with passage of time through the day. A theatre of adventure for all travel lovers, Ayers Rock is one of those primeval wonders of the world that make us pause and think.

Author:

Produced by the team at http://www.travelAU.com.au  - a group of travel and technology industry professionals promoting unique Australian tourism and travel products.

 



[1] Nellie Patterson, traditional owner, in http://www.deh.gov.au/parks/uluru/index.html, the official website on Ayer’s Rock.



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